The most important tool with which the gardener works is the soil on his land. The qualities of soil vary greatly from area to area, and all the information outlined in this chapter must be applied to local conditions. In general, however, soils can be divided into three cate­gories ; claylike, sandy or silt. The ideal soil consists of a good mix­ture of sand, silt and clay, and is classified as good garden loam. Clay soils have the greatest water-holding capacity, sandy soils the least.

The binding material of all good soils is an organic substance called humus. Humus increases the water-holding capacity of the soil, readily absorbs the sun's rays, lib­erates beneficial compounds for plants from the soil and fertilizes and improves soil texture. Humus is added to the soil by the use of or­ganic fertilizers such as manure or the product of a compost pile. Hu­mus can be purchased directly, but the expense is usually prohibitive if it is a large area that needs treat­ment.

The soil is a living thing. In the tiniest area, several million animal and plant organisms carry on their appointed tasks. The greater the bacterial activity, the more fertile your soil. Fertility requires four elements: bacterial life, sun, water and food. Given the sun, all of the other elements can be added to the soil by proper treatment. Organic fertilizers provide the soil with all of the three important elements. There are a number of ways in which these materials can be added to the soil. A few of the most com­mon and easily used follow.

The Compost Pile

A compost pile is a combination of soil and such organic materials, possibly, as manure, garbage and plant cuttings. It is prepared by first placing a layer of inactive ma­terial (dried weeds, for example), and then placing a layer of soil, al­ternating succeeding layers of or­ganic material and soil to a height of about 4 feet. The width of the pile should also be from 4 to 6 feet. The compost pile should be kept well wetted-down, particularly during the first week or so of standing, and should be turned over at regular in­tervals. When decomposition has proceeded to a sufficient point, the compost can be spaded into the soil.

Mineral and Nonorganic Fertilizers

Organic fertilizer, such as that found in a compost pile or animal manure, can be combined with in­organic fertilizer to make the best soil food. Organic fertilizers are classified according to their content of nitrogen, phosphorus and po­tash. You may see a fertilizer desig­nated 2-6-2. This means that it con­tains 2 parts nitrogen, 6 parts phos­phorus and 2 parts potash. The numbers designating the content of inorganic fertilizers always indi­cate the proportions in the order noted above.

Cover Crops

Certain crops will add these in­organic elements to the soil as they grow and also provide a valuable organic manure. These cover crops are the easiest way to fertilize land, although they take time, usually a season, to produce their best effect. Cover crops such as alfalfa, soy­beans and similar crops add nitrogen to the soil when planted and, when plowed under at the proper time, provide more.

A good cover crop of legumes, plowed under at the proper stage, can add 100 to 150 pounds of nitrogen to the soil per acre, or the equivalent of 10 to 15 pounds of animal manure. Nitrogen and mineral content in the cover crop are highest just before maturity and should be plowed un­der then. Hairy vetch, for example, a good cover crop for the home gardener because it is a winter an­nual and a good soil builder, may be sown early in September and should be plowed under in May.

Keeping the Soil in Condition

Soil requires care. Fertilization during the course of the growing season, as well as in the course of preparation, is of great importance.

The best and easiest way to effec­tively fertilize is to add either or­ganic or inorganic fertilizer to a quantity of water and then dis­tribute it over the soil. This assures even distribution and quick absorp­tion. Or spread it by hand or with a spreader, as on a lawn, and then wash down with your hose.

If you are working on building up a good soil foundation, apply your fertilizer before you spade or till, and then try to work it in evenly.

You may have to use lime, par­ticularly if you live in the Atlantic Coast region where there is less cal­cium in the soil and. consequently, the soil is acid. If you use pulver­ized limestone, with lots of organic matter, you are not apt to use too much.

Seed Selection For Your Lawn

When you select seed for your lawn, the main consideration is the exposure to sun and shade your grounds afford. Most commercial blends are adapted to full sun or medium shade. A special blend should be used where there is less than three or four hours of sun-light a day, as under trees, or where soils are dry and poor. In general, heavy grass seed is most free from chaff an dist most economical in the long run, while a cheaper, lighter seed germinates less rapidly.

Kentucky bluegrass is consider­ed the best lawn grass, but there are years when it is in short supply, and it has the disadvantage of needing a resting period in midsummer and, also, of soiling light-colored clothes. It does form a thick turf and it will grow in alkaline or slightly acid soil, resisting weeds to an extent.

For putting-green lawns for a small area on a terrace or in a gar­den, bent grasses are used. Colonial bent is widely used in mixtures, thriving as it does under less favor­able conditions than those required by creeping bent or velvet bent. The bent grasses are low-growing, fast-spreading grasses, needing frequent mowing and top-dress.

Redtop combines well with Kentucky bluegrass because it rests in fall after the bluegrass has recov­ered, and it does not stain.

Chewings fescue is a fine-tex­tured shade grass. Maturing late in the season, the various fescues resist midsummer drought, grow well in acid soil and fight weeds.

For new lawns, rye grass, a perennial, is a tough, quick-grow­ing grass which helps keep out weeds until the lawn is under way.

Bermuda grass is used in the South and the Southwest, where soil is sandy.

Whether or not clover is to be used with these grasses is a personal matter. With its white flower and its tendency to grow in patches, it spoils the continuity of the turf, but, on the other hand, it will grow in poor soil, edging out weeds that might grow in these areas.

Suggested Seed Mixtures

A mixture of grasses gives bet­ter satisfaction than a single species as a rule, because the various grasses are active in development at different seasons. Mixtures stand up against disease and disorders that will attack one grass and leave an­other alone.

Other Ground Cover

In many cases cover other than grass is desirable. Foundation plantings, banks, shady places, all often require other cover. Good covers are dependable, inexpensive and not weedy.

For open sunny areas, banks, or where a large, high cover is wanted, wild trailing rose with its white blossom is most popular; it makes a thick mat of foliage 2 feet off the ground. Also in sunny places, vari­ous forms of juniper (e.g., creeping juniper, which is long, low and spreading; Waukegan juniper, blue-gray except in winter, when it is purple, and Sargent juniper, a dense green type) form a mat 8 to 20 feet high. All are attractive either pruned or in a natural state.

For deep or light shade, there are evergreen vines such as the Bal­tic ivy and pachysandra, periwinkle with its blue-and-white spring flow­ers, and plumbago which has bril­liant blue flowers in the fall. English ivy is good for the shady north side of buildings. For soil too sandy for shrubs there is Scotch broom, which bears yellow blooms. Other covers include hay-scented fern, sandwort, lily of the valley, maiden pink, wintercreeper thyme and phlox.

Suggestions are often made for cover which can take the place of grass for lawn, but such covers are usually much more difficult to maintain than grass, even though it is claimed they do not require mow­ing. Among them are chamomile, a flowering perennial used in medie­val times for turf, and while frag­rant and soft, untidy and weak; sandwort, which has rather fleshy leaves with a smooth surface. Sand­wort grows 1 inch long and must be kept mowed to remove the seed stalks. Pearlwort, which has to be watered freely, is only practical in a hot, humid climate; it is a haven for grubs, moths, beetles and sow bugs. Dicondra, a low-creeping herb used on the West Coast for cover, is considered a weed by many, and while easy to grow, does not stand up well against abuse.

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